Halifax Is Proof That Good Things Come to Those Who Chase

Canada rewards me with beauty because I make the effort to seek her out. That is what I am stubbornly convinced of. And this is what fuels my constant pursuit of wonder across the country.

In September 2022, and freshly out of all the pandemic restrictions, I planned to visit Halifax over the Labour Day long weekend. By this time, I had lived three years in Toronto, one year in Vancouver and was newly settled in Montreal. Despite all the travelling I had done across the country, I still hadn’t made it to the Maritimes.

The room I had booked on Airbnb in downtown Halifax could have seriously ruined my trip. The young host, who had recently bought the house and was renting rooms to local students, asked me to leave a 5-star review to help him out with his new venture. That’s when I understood the good ratings that led me to book the room weren’t genuine, and I had landed in an undergrad house-share. One night, I found them renovating and cleaning the bathroom, and when we got talking about it, I suggested they use baking soda and white vinegar, as those are the cleaning products I use at home. I came back to find them using baking powder instead, a very common mistake I didn’t have the heart to point out.

Thankfully, I wasn’t planning on staying home during this trip, and the next morning, I hit the road early and headed straight to Peggy’s Cove. Here I was, a few minutes past 9 am, driving along quiet roads, deep into coastal landscapes, where forests and lakes appeared by the roadside, reflecting the sunlight and throwing sparkles across the drive. What a way to start the day, I thought. I was already charmed.

Peggy’s Cove was exactly how I expected it to be: the quaint charm of a coastal village, authentic, historical and colourful. All the scenes from “La Grande Séduction”, shot on Quebec’s North Shore, and the Newfie version “The Grand Seduction” came to my mind. The wooden houses, still standing but slightly tilted by the force of the winds, their wood deteriorated by the salt and sun and snow they have endured for decades. Dories, the locally famous flat-bottomed, open, planked boats, docked in the bay, uneven fishing stages, signs of a hard life lived through every mood of Mother Nature, year after year.
Everything was still standing, though, a true sign of resilience, a trait that coastal town residents could wear as a badge of honour.

I climbed onto the cloud-shaped rocks, where the lighthouse, bright and tall, dominated a landscape of infinite blue: the sky, the ocean.

It was a real treat for the eyes; all the elements were making this moment feel like a summer dream. I was holding on to the moment: the sun shining, the comfortable temperature, the sound of the waves crashing, the smell of iodine, the light salt spray waking up all my senses.
The perfectly aligned Muskoka chairs faced the lighthouse, bringing a bold touch of colour to this already perfect tableau.

I stayed under the spell on Polly’s Cove hiking trail, where I walked through the bushes and wind-bent trees that forced their way through the granite soil. I was alone, letting myself bounce on this boulder-strewn trail. I eventually reached the end, facing the ocean again, thinking I was the luckiest girl in the world.

The magic continued in Lunenburg, where the perfect blue sky and shimmering ocean took a back seat, letting the picturesque fishing town be the main character. I savoured the candy-coloured houses, seemingly overused dories at the wharf, lobster cages stacked perfectly together, forming an original and unexpected art installation, and, above all, the patterned buoys hanging everywhere to dry. The day had one more thing to give: a swim at Queensland beach on the way back to Halifax.

Day 2 started with a 10 km hike to Pennant Point, where I witnessed fishermen at work, a reminder that the villages, cages, boats and buoys weren’t just decoration for tourists. I indulged again in rugged flora standing strong against raging winds, birds of prey scanning the shore, and a bright green snake right at the end of the trail, sending me back to reality and straight to hell.
Why do I keep crossing paths with snakes on my hikes? Me, a lifelong snake-fearing girl.

A swim in the chilly Atlantic Ocean at Crystal Crescent Beach solved it all, as my focus was now on what a paradise this place was. Perfect white sandy beach, surrounded by pine tree forest, not crowded; granted, it was also not that warm. The water was incredibly crystal clear, a colour that competes with the Caribbean beaches I have been to. Aren’t we the luckiest in Canada? To have all this? Once again, right there, I was the luckiest girl in the world.

On my last day in Halifax, I explored the town, admired the huge Victorian houses near Point Pleasant Park, walked slowly through the public gardens, sat to contemplate the harbour and the mesmerizing work of cranes moving containers, and appreciated the unique local architecture of Halifax’s old town.

Lastly, I made time for the Museum of Immigration. As an immigrant myself, I felt I owed the place a visit. Most of the people who came through Pier 21 had not chosen to leave. I came for the fun of it, easily, with money in the bank. None of us knew what we were walking into, and we all ended up loving the same country. And here I was, four years in, rewarded again and again for chasing wonder, feeling rich, blessed and at home.

And that’s how I fell in love with Halifax. It almost made me consider moving there full time, but I knew Toronto was still very much in my heart, so I promised to come back. Which I did the next summer, but that’s a story for another time…